Words: Maggie Scardifeld
Images: Kitti Gould and Mary’s Underground
Header image: Kitti Gould for Broadsheet
Run, don’t walk, to eat this plant-forward dish.
If you live in Sydney and you haven’t eaten a Mary’s burger, chances are you’re probably A, vegetarian. Or B, vegan. There’s simply no other excuse. They’re too damn good.
And now the team behind the city’s best burgers are making sure even the herbivores among us can enjoy their American-style fast food. At the new Mary’s, which opened in Circular Quay in late April, everything from the mash and gravy to the MVP, the Mary’s burger, can be done vegan.
“Mary’s has always been about embracing and growing inclusivity,” says co-owner Jake Smyth. “Vegans are rarely given the option of delicious and fatty. But we didn’t want to be Mary’s Health Food, we wanted it to be Mary’s does Vegan.”
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These legends Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham are opening Mary’s Circular Quay tomorrow. “There’s a wider conversation about sustainability that we all need to own” Smyth said to @tristancooksandeats (read the rest of the article for @broadsheet_syd in the link in bio) which is why THE ENTIRE MENU CAN BE RECREATED VEGAN.
But fake meat, it’s not. Instead, the vegan burger patties are made with a hearty mix of carrots, mushrooms, beetroot, white beans and soy protein, and deep-fried crisp with cottonseed oil.
The vegan version highlights how delicious vegetables can be, rather than how vegetables can taste like meat.”
The patty comes on a milk bun with lettuce and a vegan cheese that took more than two years to source. Soy milk replaces the egg yolks in Mary’s signature sauce, a simple mayo that they’ve luxed up with pickles and secret condiments.
Mary’s now has three outlets around Sydney: the original bar in Newtown, a takeaway-only site on Castlereagh Street in the CBD, and the latest in Circular Quay, which includes a separate European-inspired restaurant downstairs, Mary’s Underground, with live music seven nights a week.
Gone are the days when your vegan friend has to do with fries (however, Mary’s fries would be no slouch though, to be honest). This burger is something everyone in the group can, and should, order. “The texture is pretty close to a meat patty, without being creepy,” says Smyth. “Good things come to those who wait!”
Mary’s CQ, 7 Macquarie Pl, Sydney, NSW
(02) 9247 3430